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Steel Making

Critical Points
One of the most important means of investigating the properti...

Double Annealing
Water annealing consists in heating the piece, allowing it to...

The Pyrometer And Its Use
In the heat treatment of steel, it has become absolutely nece...

Corrosion
This steel like any other steel when distorted by cold worki...

Heat Treatment Of Axles
Parts of this general type should be heat-treated to show the...

Air-hardening Steels
These steels are recommended for boring, turning and planing...

Annealing
There is no mystery or secret about the proper annealing of d...

Annealing Method
Forgings which are too hard to machine are put in pots with ...

Heat Treatment Of Steel
Heat treatment consists in heating and cooling metal at defin...

Quenching
It is considered good practice to quench alloy steels from th...

Cutting-off Steel From Bar
To cut a piece from an annealed bar, cut off with a hack saw,...

Calibration Of Pyrometer With Common Salt
An easy and convenient method for standardization and one whi...

Affinity Of Nickel Steel For Carbon
The carbon- and nickel-steel gears are carburized separately...

Phosphorus
PHOSPHORUS is an element (symbol P) which enters the metal fr...

Standard Analysis
The selection of a standard analysis by the manufacturer is t...

Vanadium
Vanadium has a very marked effect upon alloy steels rich in c...

Optical System And Electrical Circuit Of The Leeds & Northrup Optical Pyrometer
For extremely high temperature, the optical pyrometer is lar...

Liberty Motor Connecting Rods
The requirements for materials for the Liberty motor connecti...

Effects Of Proper Annealing
Proper annealing of low-carbon steels causes a complete solu...

The Care Of Carburizing Compounds
Of all the opportunities for practicing economy in the heat-t...



Lathe And Planer Tools






Category: HIGH-SPEED STEEL

FORGING.--Gently warm the steel to remove any chill, is particularly
desirable in the winter, then heat slowly and carefully to a scaling
heat, that is a lemon heat (1,800 to 2,000 deg.F.), and forge uniformly.
Reheat the tool for further forging directly the steel begins to
stiffen under the hammer. Under no circumstances forge the steel
when the temperature falls below a dark lemon to an orange color
about 1,700 deg.F. Reheat as often as is necessary to finish forging
the tool to shape. Allow the tool to cool after forging by burying
the tool in dry ashes or lime. Do not place on the damp ground
or in a draught of air.

The heating for forging should be done preferably in a pipe or
muffle furnace but if this is not convenient use a good clean fire
with plenty of fuel between the blast pipe and the tool. Never
allow the tool to soak after the desired forging heat has been
reached. Do not heat the tool further back than is necessary to
shape the tool, but give the tool sufficient heat. See that the
back of the tool is flatly dressed to provide proper support under
the nose of the tool.

HARDENING HIGH-SPEED STEEL.--Slowly reheat the cutting edge of
the tool to a cherry red, 1,400 deg.F., then force the blast so as
to raise the temperature quickly to a full white heat, 2,200 to
2,250 deg.F., that is, until the tool starts to sweat at the cutting
face. Cool the point of the tool in a dry air blast or preferably
in oil, further cool in oil keeping the tool moving until the tool
has become black hot.

To remove hardening strains reheat the tool to from 500 to 1,100 deg.F.
Cool in oil or atmosphere. This second heat treatment adds to the
toughness of the tool and therefore to its life.

GRINDING TOOLS.--Grind tools to remove all scale. Use a quick-cutting,
dry, abrasive wheel. If using a wet wheel, be sure to use plenty
of water. Do not under any circumstances force the tool against
the wheel so as to draw the color, as this is likely to set up
checks on the surface of the tool to its detriment.





Next: For Milling Cutters And Formed Tools
Previous: Cutting-off Steel From Bar


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