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   Home - Steel Making - Categories - Manufacturing and the Economy of Machinery

Steel Making

Preventing Cracks In Hardening
The blacksmith in the small shop, where equipment is usually ...

Quenching The Work
In some operations case-hardened work is quenched from the bo...

Annealing Of High-speed Steel
For annealing high-speed steel, some makers recommend using g...

Lathe And Planer Tools
FORGING.--Gently warm the steel to remove any chill, is parti...

Nickel
Nickel may be considered as the toughest among the non-rare a...

The Theory Of Tempering
Steel that has been hardened is generally harder and more br...

The Penetration Of Carbon
Carburized mild steel is used to a great extent in the manufa...

Detrimental Elements
Sulphur and phosphorus are two elements known to be detrimen...

Standard Analysis
The selection of a standard analysis by the manufacturer is t...

Testing And Inspection Of Heat Treatment
The hard parts of the gear must be so hard that a new mill f...

Shrinking And Enlarging Work
Steel can be shrunk or enlarged by proper heating and cooling...

Tool Or Crucible Steel
Crucible steel can be annealed either in muffled furnace or b...

Silicon
Silicon prevents, to a large extent, defects such as gas bubb...

Open Hearth Process
The open hearth furnace consists of a big brick room with a l...

Suggestions For Handling High-speed Steels
The following suggestions for handling high-speed steels are ...

Correction For Cold-junction Errors
The voltage generated by a thermo-couple of an electric pyrom...

Annealing In Bone
Steel and cast iron may both be annealed in granulated bone. ...

Quality And Structure
The quality of high-speed steel is dependent to a very great ...

Machineability
Reheating for machine ability was done at 100 deg. less than ...

Gears
The material used for all gears on the Liberty engine was sel...



Lathe And Planer Tools






Category: HIGH-SPEED STEEL

FORGING.--Gently warm the steel to remove any chill, is particularly
desirable in the winter, then heat slowly and carefully to a scaling
heat, that is a lemon heat (1,800 to 2,000 deg.F.), and forge uniformly.
Reheat the tool for further forging directly the steel begins to
stiffen under the hammer. Under no circumstances forge the steel
when the temperature falls below a dark lemon to an orange color
about 1,700 deg.F. Reheat as often as is necessary to finish forging
the tool to shape. Allow the tool to cool after forging by burying
the tool in dry ashes or lime. Do not place on the damp ground
or in a draught of air.

The heating for forging should be done preferably in a pipe or
muffle furnace but if this is not convenient use a good clean fire
with plenty of fuel between the blast pipe and the tool. Never
allow the tool to soak after the desired forging heat has been
reached. Do not heat the tool further back than is necessary to
shape the tool, but give the tool sufficient heat. See that the
back of the tool is flatly dressed to provide proper support under
the nose of the tool.

HARDENING HIGH-SPEED STEEL.--Slowly reheat the cutting edge of
the tool to a cherry red, 1,400 deg.F., then force the blast so as
to raise the temperature quickly to a full white heat, 2,200 to
2,250 deg.F., that is, until the tool starts to sweat at the cutting
face. Cool the point of the tool in a dry air blast or preferably
in oil, further cool in oil keeping the tool moving until the tool
has become black hot.

To remove hardening strains reheat the tool to from 500 to 1,100 deg.F.
Cool in oil or atmosphere. This second heat treatment adds to the
toughness of the tool and therefore to its life.

GRINDING TOOLS.--Grind tools to remove all scale. Use a quick-cutting,
dry, abrasive wheel. If using a wet wheel, be sure to use plenty
of water. Do not under any circumstances force the tool against
the wheel so as to draw the color, as this is likely to set up
checks on the surface of the tool to its detriment.





Next: For Milling Cutters And Formed Tools
Previous: Cutting-off Steel From Bar




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