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Steel Making

MANGANESE is a metal much like iron. Its chemical symbol is M...

Steel Can Be Worked Cold
As noted above, steel can be worked cold, as in the case of ...

Effect Of Different Carburizing Material
[Illustrations: FIGS. 33 to 37.] Each of these different p...

Steel is hardened by quenching from above the upper critical....

Annealing Work
With the exception of several of the higher types of alloy s...

Non-shrinking Oil-hardening Steels
Certain steels have a very low rate of expansion and contract...

The Packing Department
In Fig. 56 is shown the packing pots where the work is packe...

Pyrometry And Pyrometers
A knowledge of the fundamental principles of pyrometry, or th...

The Leeds And Northrup Potentiometer System
The potentiometer pyrometer system is both flexible and subst...

Annealing Alloy Steel
The term alloy steel, from the steel maker's point of view, r...

Making Steel Balls
Steel balls are made from rods or coils according to size, st...

Annealing Of High-speed Steel
For annealing high-speed steel, some makers recommend using g...

Molybdenum steels have been made commercially for twenty-five...

Care In Annealing
Not only will benefits in machining be found by careful anne...

Short Method Of Treatment
In the new method, the packed pots are run into the case-har...

A combination of the characteristics of nickel and the charac...

Typical Oil-fired Furnaces
Several types of standard oil-fired furnaces are shown herew...

Chromium when alloyed with steel, has the characteristic func...

Composition And Properties Of Steel
It is a remarkable fact that one can look through a dozen tex...

Carburizing Material
The simplest carburizing substance is charcoal. It is also th...

Lathe And Planer Tools


FORGING.--Gently warm the steel to remove any chill, is particularly
desirable in the winter, then heat slowly and carefully to a scaling
heat, that is a lemon heat (1,800 to 2,000 deg.F.), and forge uniformly.
Reheat the tool for further forging directly the steel begins to
stiffen under the hammer. Under no circumstances forge the steel
when the temperature falls below a dark lemon to an orange color
about 1,700 deg.F. Reheat as often as is necessary to finish forging
the tool to shape. Allow the tool to cool after forging by burying
the tool in dry ashes or lime. Do not place on the damp ground
or in a draught of air.

The heating for forging should be done preferably in a pipe or
muffle furnace but if this is not convenient use a good clean fire
with plenty of fuel between the blast pipe and the tool. Never
allow the tool to soak after the desired forging heat has been
reached. Do not heat the tool further back than is necessary to
shape the tool, but give the tool sufficient heat. See that the
back of the tool is flatly dressed to provide proper support under
the nose of the tool.

HARDENING HIGH-SPEED STEEL.--Slowly reheat the cutting edge of
the tool to a cherry red, 1,400 deg.F., then force the blast so as
to raise the temperature quickly to a full white heat, 2,200 to
2,250 deg.F., that is, until the tool starts to sweat at the cutting
face. Cool the point of the tool in a dry air blast or preferably
in oil, further cool in oil keeping the tool moving until the tool
has become black hot.

To remove hardening strains reheat the tool to from 500 to 1,100 deg.F.
Cool in oil or atmosphere. This second heat treatment adds to the
toughness of the tool and therefore to its life.

GRINDING TOOLS.--Grind tools to remove all scale. Use a quick-cutting,
dry, abrasive wheel. If using a wet wheel, be sure to use plenty
of water. Do not under any circumstances force the tool against
the wheel so as to draw the color, as this is likely to set up
checks on the surface of the tool to its detriment.

Next: For Milling Cutters And Formed Tools

Previous: Cutting-off Steel From Bar

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