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Steel Making

The Theory Of Tempering
Steel that has been hardened is generally harder and more br...

Lathe And Planer Tools
TO FORGE.--Gently warm the steel to remove any chill is parti...

Sulphur
Sulphur is another impurity and high sulphur is even a greate...

Temperature Recording And Regulation
Each furnace is equipped with pyrometers, but the reading an...

Heat Treatment Of Axles
Parts of this general type should be heat-treated to show the...

Rate Of Cooling
At the option of the manufacturer, the above treatment of gea...

The Electric Process
The fourth method of manufacturing steel is by the electric f...

Hardness Testing
The word hardness is used to express various properties of me...

Tempering Colors On Carbon Steels
Opinions differ as to the temperature which is indicated by t...

Correction By Zero Adjustment
Many pyrometers are supplied with a zero adjuster, by means ...

Liberty Motor Connecting Rods
The requirements for materials for the Liberty motor connecti...

Lathe And Planer Tools
FORGING.--Gently warm the steel to remove any chill, is parti...

Fatigue Tests
It has been known for fifty years that a beam or rod would fa...

The Quenching Tank
The quenching tank is an important feature of apparatus in c...

Hardening High-speed Steels
We will now take up the matter of hardening high-speed steels...

Correction For Cold-junction Errors
The voltage generated by a thermo-couple of an electric pyrom...

Complete Calibration Of Pyrometers
For the complete calibration of a thermo-couple of unknown e...

Protectors For Thermo-couples
Thermo-couples must be protected from the danger of mechanica...

Corrosion
This steel like any other steel when distorted by cold worki...

Protective Screens For Furnaces
Workmen needlessly exposed to the flames, heat and glare from...



Quenching Tool Steel






Category: HARDENING CARBON STEEL FOR TOOLS

To secure proper hardness, the cooling of quenching of steel is
as important as its heating. Quenching baths vary in nature, there
being a large number of ways to cool a piece of steel in contrast
to the comparatively few ways of heating it.

Plain water, brine and oil are the three most common quenching
materials. Of these three the brine will give the most hardness,
and plain water and oil come next. The colder that any of these
baths is when the piece is put into it the harder will be the steel;
but this does not mean that it is a good plan to dip the heated
steel into a tank of ice water, for the shock would be so great
that the bar would probably fly to pieces. In fact, the quenching
bath must be sometimes heated a bit to take off the edge of the
shock.

Brine solutions will work uniformly, or give the same degree of
hardness, until they reach a temperature of 150 deg.F. above which
their grip relaxes and the metals quenched in them become softer.
Plain water holds its grip up to a temperature of approximately
100 deg.F.; but oil baths, which are used to secure a slower rate of
cooling, may be used up to 500 deg. or more. A compromise is sometimes
effected by using a bath consisting of an inch or two of oil floating
on the surface of water. As the hot steel passes through the oil,
the shock is not as severe as if it were to be thrust directly
into the water; and in addition, oil adheres to the tool and keeps
the water from direct contact with the metal.

The old idea that mercury will harden steel more than any other
quenching material has been exploded. A bath consisting of melted
cyanide of potassium is useful for heating fine engraved dies and
other articles that are required to come out free from scale. One
must always be careful to provide a hood or exhaust system to get
rid of the deadly fumes coming from the cyanide pot.

The one main thing to remember in hardening tool steel is to quench
on a rising heat. This does not mean a rapid heating as a slow
increase in temperature is much better in every way.





Next: The Theory Of Tempering

Previous: Double Annealing



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