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Steel MakingPlacing Of PyrometersWhen installing a pyrometer, care should be taken that it re... Shrinking And Enlarging Work Steel can be shrunk or enlarged by proper heating and cooling... Oil-hardening Steel Heat slowly and uniformly to 1,450 deg.F. and forge thorough... Case-hardening Treatments For Various Steels Plain water, salt water and linseed oil are the three most co... Correction By Zero Adjustment Many pyrometers are supplied with a zero adjuster, by means ... Heavy Forging Practice In heavy forging practice where the metal is being worked at... Furnace Data In order to give definite information concerning furnaces, fu... Separating The Work From The Compound During the pulling of the heat, the pots are dumped upon a ca... Making Steel Balls Steel balls are made from rods or coils according to size, st... Critical Points One of the most important means of investigating the properti... Carbon In Tool Steel Carbon tool steel, or tool steel as it is commonly called, us... Hardening Steel is hardened by quenching from above the upper critical.... The Electric Process The fourth method of manufacturing steel is by the electric f... The Leeds And Northrup Potentiometer System The potentiometer pyrometer system is both flexible and subst... Hardening High-speed Steels We will now take up the matter of hardening high-speed steels... Carbon-steel Forgings Low-stressed, carbon-steel forgings include such parts as car... Tempering Round Dies A number of circular dies of carbon tool steel for use in too... An Automatic Temperature Control Pyrometer Automatic temperature control instruments are similar to the ... Lathe And Planer Tools FORGING.--Gently warm the steel to remove any chill, is parti... Temperature Recording And Regulation Each furnace is equipped with pyrometers, but the reading an... |
A Chromium-cobalt SteelCategory: HIGH-SPEED STEEL The Latrobe Steel Company make a high-speed steel without tungsten, its red-hardness properties depending on chromium and cobalt instead of tungsten. It is known as P. R. K-33 steel. It does not require the high temperature of the tungsten steels, hardening at 1,830 to 1,850 deg.F. instead of 2,200 deg. or even higher, as with the tungsten. This steel is forged at 1,900 to 2,000 deg.F. and must not be worked at a lower temperature than 1,600 deg.F. It requires soaking in the fire more than the tungsten steels. It can be normalized by heating slowly and thoroughly to 1,475 deg.F., holding this for from 10 to 20 min. according to the size of the piece and cooling in the open air, protected from drafts. A peculiarity of this steel is that it becomes non-magnetic at or above 1,960 deg.F. and the magnetic quality is not restored by cooling. Normalizing as above, however, restores the magnetic qualities. This enables the user to detect any tools which have been overheated, with a horseshoe magnet. It is sometimes advantageous to dip tools, before heating for hardening, in ordinary fuel or quenching oil. The oil leaves a thin film of carbon which tends to prevent decarbonization, giving a very hard surface. For other makes of high-speed steel used in lathe and planer tools the makers recommend that the tools be cut from the bar with a hack saw or else heated and cut with a chisel. The heating should be very slow until the steel reaches a red after which it can be heated more rapidly and should only be forged at a high heat. It can be forged at very high heats but care should be taken not to forge at a low heat. The heating should be uniform and penetrate clear to the center of the bar before forging is begun. Reheat as often as necessary to forge at the proper heat. After forging cool in lime before attempting to harden. Do not attempt to harden with the forging heat as was sometimes done with the carbon tools. For hardening forged tools, heat slowly up to a bright red and then rapidly until the point of the tool is almost at a melting heat. Cool in a blast of cold, dry air. For large sizes of steel, cool in linseed oil or in fish oil as is most convenient. If the tools are to be used for finishing cuts heat to a bright yellow and quench in oil. Grind for use on a sand wheel or grindstone in preference to an emery or an artificial abrasive wheel. For hardening milling and similar cutters, preheat to a bright red, place the cutter on a round bar of suitable size, and revolve it quickly over a very hot fire. Heat as high as possible without melting the points of the teeth and cool in a cold blast of dry air or in fish oil. Light fragile cutters, twist drills, taps and formed cutters may be heated almost white and then dipped in fish oil for hardening. Where possible it is better to give an even higher heat and cool in the blast of cold, dry air as previously recommended. Next: Suggestions For Handling High-speed Steels Previous: Heat Treatment Of Punches And Dies Shears Taps Etc
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